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One of the most common skin complaints is that of hyperpigmentation. While we all dream of a doll-like Alabaster finish or a rich, even, mahogany glow, discoloration can impede on our ideals of perfection. Hyperpigmentation is an excess of pigmentation in the skin. Factors influence cells called melanocytes to produce pigment as a defense mechanism. Some types of Hyperpigmentation include: Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH) is caused by an inflammatory response to a chemical or a physical irritant. It is most common in Asian, Black, Mediterranean and Middle Eastern Skin types. This is because there is more pigmentation naturally occurring within the Skin. Over treatment of acne with products such as Benzoyl peroxide, aggressive exfoliation and acne or blemish extractions can all lead to hyperpigmentation. Hormonal Hyperpigmentation Our hormones influence all other body functions including those in the skin. This discoloration can be caused by birth control, hormonal therapies, pregnancy or menopause. The most common pigmentation alignment caused by hormones is melasma, also know as pregnancy mask and is characterized by splotchy dark patches across the face, usually not affecting the orbital around the eyes lending to the disorder’s nickname. Sun Damage induced Hyperpigmentation Unprotected exposure to the sun’s radiation can lead to melanocytes being so severely damaged that this immune response to darken can be permanently affected. UV induced discoloration includes; Solar lentigens (freckles), Chloasma (liver spots), and multiple forms of Mottling or grouping of various spots that create an overall pronounced patch. Sun induced hyperpigmentation most easily afflicts Caucasians, as it is more visible. How to Combat Hyperpigmentation: When dealing with hyperpigmentation, a two-part approach goes hand-in-hand. Treatment and prevention are equally important. Treatment There are many creams, lotions and serums to treat Hyperpigmentation. Hydroquinone is the only FDA approved drug for the treatment of hyperpigmentation. It works by interfering with the production of melanocytes. It is available over the counter at a 2% concentration. There are many other topical products that help suppress melanin production or brighten the skin and these include: Kojic Acid, Arbutin, Vitamin C, Bearberry Extract, Azelaic Acid and Licorice Extract  Exfoliation also aids in the removal of these cells that lay on the top surface of the skin. When used properly Glycolic Acid or other AHAs, Salicylic Acid and Treitnoin (Vitamin A), sloth off the buildup of cells. Just use caution with exfoliation, especially physical exfoliants as they can worsen or be the root cause of discoloration. Prevention All Hyperpigmentation no matter the initial cause will be worsened by sun exposure. A daily SPF of 30, reapplied often is necessary. Wear a hat and sunglasses to protect your face. Limit your outdoor activities by avoiding the hours that the sun is the most dangerous (10am-4pm) and never use indoor tanning beds. Hopefully with this information you will be better prepared to pursue that desire for beautiful, even skin no matter your race or age.   Blog Written by askderm's in house Esthetician Chantal Monique Chantal Monique is a NYS licensed Esthetician and Makeup Artist. She has 7 years experience in skin care and makeup artistry. Her specialties include makeup application and facial treatments, which were featured on ABC's Wife Swap. Chantal also has a background in the Fine Arts. With the unique combination of her education as well as the desire to help people feel beautiful, Chantal provides expert skin care knowledge for our customers as well as the must have ingredients and trending looks. With an ever growing portfolio and clientele askderm is excited to be teamed up with Chantal for future blogs, informational videos and skin care tips!

After years of stripped down approaches, introductions of all-in-one products and “easy” three step systems, there is a buzz in the states about a different mind-set when it comes to taking care of the skin: Layering, a trend that is already popular in Asia and France with upwards to 10, 11, even more steps of methodically layered products.With a different outlook, these countries spend millions more on skincare, while in the United States there is a different attitude; more money is spent on cosmetics and makeup. Covering up flaws rather than combating or preventing them to begin with. If we all suffered from less acne, dealt with less pigmentation issues and earlier on addressed fine lines/aging, would we spend less on makeup, too?It brings to mind images of women looking almost flawless upon waking up, walking out the door with only a BB cream and a swipe of lipstick, while we all look on in envy of her beauty, and only after we spent upwards to an hour painstakingly penciling in our brows and concealing countless blemishes. While we all know someone who only uses bar soap to wash their face and has no pores and is always glowing, the rest of us are in a constant battle with our skin. While you may not have the time or resources for a 10+step skin care regiment, adding one or more new products, or even knowing the correct order in which to use them, could make all the difference.Always apply products in accordance from light to heavy, thin to thick. Remember lighter products like serums are molecularly smaller when compared to heavier products like creams and moisturizers, and will absorb quickly and penetrate deeper. Creams will act to seal these products into the skin.Step 1: Makeup RemovalWhile this should go without saying, ALWAYS remove your makeup at night. At the very least use a makeup remover wipe. Some regular cleansers are gentle enough for use around the eye, or oil based makeup removers, which easily break down foundation and mascara.Step 2: CleanseFoaming or cream cleanser, depending on your skin type Step 3: ExfoliationThis can be done as a separate step with a physical exfoliant product, or with your regular cleanser in conjunction with your Clarisonic or FOREO Luna.Step 4: TonerWhile some are more astringent-like and strip excess oil, other toners or boosters soften the skin and prepare it to take on and absorb products to follow.Step 5: MaskThey come in a vast variety, whether it is a sheet mask, a gel, or clay mask. They address all types of issues from oily acneic skin, lack of hydration within the skin or hyperpigmentation to name a few. Masks are perfect for two to three day a week use.Step 6: Serums or EssencesJust like masks they come is a variety of textures, from completely water like to a gel, and address many different issues. Unlike masks, these products are used daily or twice daily. Some people believe it is crucial to apply these within seconds after washing the face and with a patting motion rather than rubbing into the face.Step 7: Eye creamWhether formulated with caffeine to tighten the under eye skin in the morning, or hydrating and antioxidant-rich for nighttime treatment use.Step 8: MoisturizeOily skin still needs moisture, so hydrating sprays or gel moisturizers are recommended for this skin type, while more mature and dry skin can benefit form a heavier cream or an oil based moisturizer.Step 9: Spot treatmentThis could be spot treating acne blemishes with salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide, or perhaps treating hyperpigmentation spots with hydroquinone or kojic acid.Step 10: Sun protectionThe last step to a morning skin care regiment should always be applying a broad spectrum SPF.  These basics to a layered skincare approach may help simplify what previously seemed like a daunting trial and error science experiment, and a bathroom counter riddled with bottles and jars of potions and promises. Is “less is more” or is “more is more”?Blog Written by askderm's in house Esthetician Chantal MoniqueChantal Monique is a NYS licensed Esthetician and Makeup Artist. She has 7 years experience in skin care and makeup artistry. Her specialties include makeup application and facial treatments, which were featured on ABC's Wife Swap. Chantal also has a background in the Fine Arts. With the unique combination of her education as well as the desire to help people feel beautiful, Chantal provides expert skin care knowledge for our customers as well as the must have ingredients and trending looks. With an ever growing portfolio and clientele askderm is excited to be teamed up with Chantal for future blogs, informational videos and skin care tips!

Summer has finally arrived and with it, comes all the pool parties, ocean side vacations, backyard barbecues, and the beauty dilemmas that can come with it. Here is how to feel good about your body, keep makeup meltdowns at bay, how to get that dewy summer skin & healthy hair you dream about.  If you frequent my blogs you know my stance on sun protection to the point of ad nauseum. Yes, your body needs Vitamin D, which it synthesizes from the sun, but the risks can far outweigh the benefits if you are choosing to fry yourself. If you are one of those people who must catch some rays here is how to do it healthfully: Exposure should only occur three times a week for 10-15 minutes MAX without sunscreen (you may be able to go a few more minutes if you naturally have a darker skin tone.) No more than that! To keep yourself within these healthy parameters schedule to do this during your lunch hour Monday, Wednesday and Friday. Set a timer. Once you hear that “ding”, you are done baking, literally! If you still question whether or not your vitamin D levels are adequate, schedule an appointment with your primary doctor for a blood test to see where you stand. Simple adjustments to your diet can also supplement your Vitamin D. For a Complete Guide to Proper use of Sunscreen and the dangers of UV exposure please check out my past blog posts:             “Tips and Tricks You may not Know About Sunscreen”             “Tanning Bed Dangers”             “Why you need to Protect Yourself From the Sun Year Round” While wearing sunscreen is obvious, here are other summer beauty tips to consider: Make Fruits and Veggies the Main focus of every meal. At least half of the plate of every meal should consist of produce. Farmers markets, roadside stands and the local grocery store are abundant with fresh seasonal fruits and vegetables. Lycopene a powerful antioxidant is not only found in tomatoes but also has high concentrations in watermelon. So enjoy all the summer specific vegetables and fruits. During warmer months it is truly important to keep your body hydrated. If you struggle to drink the recommended ounces of water daily, try adding sliced strawberries, cucumbers, lemon or mint to your water and you will find yourself more likely to drink it. Aside from all the vitamin and mineral benefits of increasing your produce consumption, you will also find that this additional intake will aid in your digestion to alleviate sluggishness and will help you in your health goals. Trying to be bikini ready and banish bloat? Avoid excess salt and dairy on swimsuit days. Sweat and Sand Proof Your Makeup. Forgo full coverage foundations; instead opt for tinted moisturizers, BB creams, and CC creams. Conceal only where you really need it and use powder on your oily areas sparingly. If you are not using a primer as the first step to your makeup routine, it is a product worth investing in to ensure that your makeup endures and withstands sweltering temps. If you have skin prone to oiliness, use blotting papers throughout the day to combat shine. Setting sprays also lock in makeup and increase its longevity. While some may think powders are the key to every summer look, products like cream blushes wear beautifully in the warmer months, they melt into the skin and create a realistic healthy flush. Cream shadows also tend to stand up better to water. If you find that your pencil eyeliner is leaving you looking like a raccoon by traveling down onto the tops of your cheeks or transferring onto your oily upper lid, try using liquid eyeliners instead. If you want to experiment with bold colors but are intimidated, try focusing on one feature and leaving the rest of the face neutral- a daring purple, orange or bright red lipstick pairs beautifully with just a swipe of mascara and well-groomed eyebrows. Likewise, multiple coats of a colored mascara is a fun look when paired with just a simple nude lip balm. If you plan on being directly in the sun for an extended period of time avoid super shiny lip glosses as they can magnify your lip’s sun exposure. While a lipstick may not contain the same SPF ingredients (ex Titanium Dioxide) as a specified sun protection balm, the more opaque a lipstick is, the more sun protection it offers. This makes the newly popular long lasting matte liquid lipsticks a summer favorite. Considering it dries matte, you will also banish the hair-stuck-to-your-lip gloss experience all of us girls dread. Adjust your Skincare Regiment. If you have oily or acne prone skin you may find that you need to switch to lighter product formulations. Swap creamier cleansers for gel washes. Oily skin types still need to use moisturizer but may find that it needs to only be applied once daily, preferably at night. For the very oiliest of skin, a hydrating facial spray is a perfect moisturizer. After misting onto your face, use your fingertips to gently press into the skin. Masks are a great addition to your summer routine. Clay masks will absorb excess oil, while gel masks, can be stored in the fridge and are great for cooling the skin, while reducing redness and sensitivity. Hyperpigmentation can become more apparent in the summer. Add a Vitamin C, licorice extract or Kojic acid containing serum to your routine. However if you continue to tan and expose yourself to too much sun, you will continue to have discoloration. Exfoliate (dry brushing, salt scrub, loofa) your body regularly on days you do not shave. Avoid unsightly bumps, folliculitis or razor rash by opting to have a professional wax. Once waxed you will not have to worry about shaving everyday or dark hair being visible within the follicle. If you opt to shave apply a benzoyl peroxide, glycolic acid or salicylic acid lotion to the shaven area to avoid razor rash. Coconut oil is also great post shave as it hydrates and has both anti-microbial/ anti-inflammatory properties. Here are my tips if some form of water is your destination! Beach and Ocean Beauty Tips: Schedule a gel manicure/pedicure prior to a beach vacation. Sand and salt breakdown and dull regular nail polishes, opting for the gel version will insure your polish stays shiny and last far longer without chipping. Long walks on the beach anyone? While the idea has a cheesy connotation walking on the sand engages muscles differently. The unevenness of the sand underneath you and the extra resistance is great for strengthening and toning your ankles, calves, hamstrings and glutes. If your brows tend to bleach in the sun and you want to avoid that, rub your sunscreen lotion into them or swipe a sunscreen stick over them. Why spend money on a salt spray for your hair when you can make use of the ocean water. As your hair air dries, twist small sections around your fingers for the perfect beachy waves. Ocean water contains many healthy minerals and trace elements and is known for healing wounds. Those who have acne, scars and eczema may see improvement to their skin post an ocean vacation. While the salt and sand is a great exfoliator, it is also drying so utilize outdoor showers to rinse off the excess. Apply a lightweight body lotion after a day at the beach. Swimming Pool Tips: Chlorine can be just as drying as salt, so rinse yourself as soon as possible after being in the pool and apply a full body moisturizer. Wear flip flops in public areas as humidity and standing water, like what is found in changing areas and around the pool, are breeding grounds for the viruses and fungus that cause athlete’s foot, ringworm and plantar warts. I have color treated hair and despite having my color done every four weeks, I keep chlorinated pool water from ever touching my hair. If you aren’t this hardcore, prior to the pool, wet your hair and apply a heavy weight conditioner that you do not rinse out until afterwards. This should give your locks an added layer of protection. If you do not have time to go home and shower after the pool and are worried about your hair, bring along a club soda to rinse away residue. To avoid brassiness or the dreaded green pool hair, mix baking soda with your favorite shampoo or while in the shower, rinse your hair with apple cider vinegar prior to shampooing. With added products and knowledge in your beauty arsenal, this advice should have you feeling confident to take on any summer beauty challenge and have you ready to embrace your inner mermaid!